|
Post by bpajwhite on Apr 27, 2007 22:28:47 GMT -5
I've been doing a little playing with Photoshop tonight. What do you think? Before: After: Still trying to get the hang of it. Having loads of fun though. bpajwhite
|
|
|
Post by pacifiChrono on Apr 28, 2007 2:11:17 GMT -5
Looks great. I'd like to know what you did to get that effect. A couple suggestions...one is to position the hands so they don't obstruct the name, logo, or other important feature of the dial. Setting to 10:09 usually accomplishes this, but sometimes a different (but still symmetrical) setting is necessary. Another is to position the watches at a bit of an angle and maybe use a black card to eliminate any crystal reflections. I took your photo and did just a little "cleaning up" using the cloning tool and scratch remover in Paint Shop Pro X. If you compare the two photos closely you'll see the little 'distractions' I removed. You might be able to get rid of the glare on the Steinhart's crystal, but that was more than I could handle! I also re-cropped the photo so equal space was bordering the outside of the watches (cut out some of the left 'margin'). Finally, I added a small degree of sharpening, but not sure that it really added any improvement...maybe not. I like your PhotoShop work!
|
|
|
Post by bpajwhite on Apr 29, 2007 11:37:11 GMT -5
Hey pacifiChrono, Thanks for your input, I sure appreciate it. A lot of the photos around here are so good, some of your’s in particular, that it inspired me to go and buy the stuff to build a light box. I love your photo of the blue speedy with the leather books in the background. I got a large, clear (sort of) plastic storage container, two 500 watt halogen work lights, one clamp on metal ring light (not sure what it is really called but it looks like the metal bowl that you see on older style electric stoves underneath the element – only this one is bigger and deeper and takes a regular sized household light bulb). I put a 60 watt daylight colored bulb in it. With the box lying on it’s side, I used double sided tape to stick a black cloth to the inside bottom and back of the box. Then I crumpled up several sheets of white tissue paper and stuck them to the inside sides and the underside of the top. I did this to diffuse the light. I placed one 500 watt light on either side and the metal bowl light on the top. However, I’m still not happy with the lighting that I’m getting. It seems to harsh. For example look at the way the highlights are blown out on the bezel of the Steinhart in the above photo. And yet the bottom of the bezel is so dark it looks almost black not green. I tried taping two sheets of paper to the outside of the box (right in between the halogens and the box) but it did not seem to help. My first thought was that may be the 500’s were to strong, but my exposures are about 1/3 to ½ second. That seems way too slow to me already. I’m using a pocket digital camera Sony DSC-T3 and I don’t know what the minimum aperture is. I’m used to shooting on a Nikon SLR which is much easier to stabilize and gives you way more control, but unfortunately mine is only for 35mm film. One of these days I’ll get that D200 I’ve been wanting. What kind of camera do you use? Where did you get the clear plastic holders that you put the watches on in your photos? I need to order some of those. As far as the editing went, the steps I took where quite simple really. I opened the image in Photoshop, and went to Auto Levels then Auto Contrast, and finally Auto Color. That made a huge difference. Then I used the clone tool to get rid of a bunch of dust spots on the black cloth. I love that tool. I then saved the image and opened it up in Microsoft Office Picture Manager (comes with Office Professional). I used Picture Manager to crop the left side (you’re right again though, I did not crop enough) and then resize the image so that it would fit on photobucket. I don’t know why, but I still have not been able to figure out how to do those two things in Photoshop. You are right about the hands on the watch. It will be easy enough to do on the Steinhart but the Vostok doesn’t hack, making things more difficult. Also, I don’t particularly care for the look of the photos when the crown is pulled out. Although, I suppose with a little practice, that could be Photoshoped as well. Thanks again, bpajwhite
|
|
|
Post by pacifiChrono on Apr 30, 2007 1:54:31 GMT -5
Just keep experimenting. I trust you are using a tripod, right? Next time you set things up, take a photo of it so we can see just how it looks. My first light box was made from a clear plastic storage bin, too. I read about using a cardboard box with white tracing paper used on all sides (cutting out the cardboard) so tried that and like it just a little better (see photo below, except I'm now using a 20W desk lamp on top instead of the work light on the right). I'm also using two different image editing programs because I'm still a noob with PSP. Ha-ha.
|
|
|
Post by pacifiChrono on Apr 30, 2007 1:58:04 GMT -5
Oh, BTW, I recommend you zoom in to at least 150% of original image size before beginning your cloning and scratch removing. You'll see a lot more distractions to remove that way.
|
|
|
Post by ld on Jul 25, 2007 9:44:33 GMT -5
Interesting ideas....
|
|
|
Post by MikeS on Aug 30, 2007 9:09:16 GMT -5
how much does this program cost?
|
|
|
Post by JBHII on Aug 30, 2007 9:36:06 GMT -5
how much does this program cost? Approximately 300.00.
|
|
|
Post by diver88 on Aug 31, 2007 4:21:10 GMT -5
i played around a bit with it, can you see any differences. again , i have no idea. just trying to learn how. diver88 ;D ;D ;D
|
|